4th September 1826. Left
Lima, arrived at the Fortress of Callao and embarked at 7 at
night. The crowd being so great as to impede the General
embarking sooner. Men, women and children in fear and all
declaring they would on no consideration allow his departure.
5th to 8th. On the Pacific,
on board the sloop of war "Congress". Fair wind.
9th Sept. Came to in sight
of Deadman's Chest in the mouth of the Guayaquil River.
10th Anchored at Island of
11th Farther up the river.
12th Arrived at 3 o'clock
in the morning at the city of Guayaquil, and landed just at
daybreak amidst a thundering salute of cannon, ringing of
bells, bands, huzzahs, etc.
13th to 18th In Guayaquil,
five balls, three public dinners, horse races, etc.
18th To the town of San
Borondon, 7 leagues, and embarked. Beautiful scenery, the
banks of the river are covered with plantations and country
houses. The effect is heightened by the picturesque appearance
of the "balsas" on rafts, each of which has a little thatched
house and a number of flower pots on it besides poultry and
all the other little appendages to a family. It looks
something like what is described of the Chinese. A plentiful
dinner but cursedly hot and the room not very airy.
19th To the Fort and Town
of Babahoyo, 8 leagues by river. Shot several crocodile they
being in swarms on the sand banks, some as long as 16 feet.
The banks of the river here are covered with rich pasturage
20th Halt for meals.
21st To the cattle estate
of Carzah, 3 leagues. Went to shoot wild geese, plenty game.
22nd To the hamlet of
Large, 9 leagues. Very bad road through an almost impenetrable
forest impervious to the rays of the sun, up to the girths in
mire. Crossed the river several times. This road is impassable
in the rainy season.
23rd To the town of San
Miguel, good road in the dry season, vice versa, 7 leagues, 5˝
and an ascent of about 60 degrees. San Miguel cold climate in
a beautiful, valley and commanding a good view of Chimborazo,
which is seen rising majestically above the clouds over the
valley of Guaranda. The climate now changes from excessive
heat to the cold bracing air of the serrania or mountains, I
rather say Highlands.
24th To the borough town of
Rio Gamba, 12 leagues. Cross the Cordillera of the Andes by
the Paramo of Payal and the Chimborazo. Cross the rains of the
old Rio Gamba. Breakfasted at the town of Cajabamba. Splendid
dinner today. About 3,000 horsemen came out to meet the
General, in fact these people show that they have some talent
and discernment having shown a due respect for the Aides.
25th To the borough town of
Ambato 9 leagues. This town suffered considerably when the
last eruption of Cotopaxi ruined La Facunga and Rio Camba.
Well received, good dinner and better horses. Mine tried to
run away with me and as I was as headstrong as he, all the
revenge he could take was to throw himself on his back,
whilst I threw myself off it. It broke my new Hussar saddle
and galloped all the way and jumped over the road, ditches and
26th To the borough town of
La Facunga, 7 leagues, through beautifully cultivated I
country. This day there were seven volcanoes in sight. Well
received. An immense crowd of Indians with saints, triumphal
arches and chicha pots, of which liquor they made most liberal
27th To the town of
Machachi, 11 leagues. Past the foot of Cotopaxi and over the
plain of Mulalo in which there is an artificial mountain made
by the Incas, supposed to contain hidden treasures. This plain
is covered with enormous masses of stone ejected by Cotopaxi.
28th To the city of Quito
11 leagues, fine road, magnificent and rich scenery, abundant
country. This city is seated at the foot of the Pichincha
Volcano. We were well received although through the stupidity
of the Intendant not so well as otherwise might have been
expected. Here we remained carousing and in was sailing till
the 4th of October. Beautiful women in Quito although without
5th October To the Estate
of Chaquinbamba, 7 leagues. On leaving Quito there is a lovely
prospect of the Valley of Pomasqui. An immediate descent to
the river and rather cold at night.
6th To the borough town of
Otovalo, 8 leagues. Beautifully rich and picturesque country
in a high state of cultivation and thickly populated. There
was a splendid reception, excellent dejeuné, dinner supper and
ball. Pretty girls and kind. Mountain Imbaburá.
7th To the city of Ibarra,
beautiful scenery and reception with a great deal of taste,
ball at night and next day dinner, ball and supper. Left the
Cayanti to the left.
8th All snug and in clover.
9th To the town of Pemtal.
Past the beautiful Lake of Yaguar-Cocha or moody Lake, and
descent to the River Chota which has a bridge. A tremendous
ascent in which during a storm we lost our way and got well
drenched in spite of our oil cloth clothes. Beastly dinner,
bad quarters and a miserable town with a talkative and
fastidious old friar as curate who recommended his coffee as
super excellent, as he assured us it was "de America". So much
for the Friar' s knowledge of the production of his native
10th To the town of Fulcan.
Breakfasted at the town of Tura whose curate was just as bad a
s the other and gave us black puddings for breakfast. Stopped
to take something at the town of Guiaca situated in a forest
infested with banditti. This day we had an escort of cavalry
and got well drenched. Got into Fulcan about 5 in the evening
after 12 leagues of a heavy road. My wally de sham deserted
today and carried with him a horse saddle and bridle. All my
cloaks and dressing apparatus for the road ... probably the
guerrilla took him in the wood.
11th To Cumbal, 4 leagues
over rich pasturage. This town is very cold and situated at
the foot of a volcano from which it takes its name. There was
a battle fought here.
12th To the town of
Fuguerres, 10 leagues over rich pasturage. A little corn and
potatoes. Past three towns, road very good in dry weather.
13th To the city of Pasto,
12 leagues in Yacuanguer, past the River Guitara. A good deal
of ascent and forest with positions at every half league. The
city has a beautiful appearance from above, situated in a
plain which it covers with a fine river running through it.
The country rises almost imperceptibly in amphitheatre covered
with country houses, farms and estates mostly of wheat and
barley with Indian corn and potatoes.
14th Remained at Pasto
which is almost without inhabitants owing to the bloody and
inveterate war which has been carried on. It is calculated
that not less than 60,000 men have lost their lives in this
province and from the year 1823, 95 Field Officers and
Officers have been killed in Pasto of the Colombian Army.
Things are beginning to mend however, as the last guerrilla
was taken with his party a few months since and shot. The
obstinacy of these people has never had an example in any
nation. They have frequently routed our best troops with
wooden clubs and spears and never has a Pastuso asked for
quarter on the field. The original settlers of this Province
were Biscayans and Catalonians who are remarkable for their
hardiness and constancy in Spain.
15th To Ortega, a ruined
hacienda, by some mistake the cooks missed their way and we
were without dinner or supper too. Fine country but entirely
depopulated. We could see several groups of cattle that had
gone wild and whose owners had long since been exterminated.
My baggage did not make its appearance today and to an empty
stomach I had the agreeable sensation to add that I had not a
second shirt to my back. This day's journey 8 leagues, partly
forest with a villainous heavy road and partly open country.
16th To the hut of Encanada,
5 leagues, descended to and crossed the River Juanambú, desert
country full of positions and remains of field fortifications.
There have been at least thirty engagements fought at
different times within these 5 leagues. No appearance of the
baggage, many a curse did I bestow, dire heart and fell did I
bestow on the Pastusos as I recrossed the river in search of
it. However, at last I met with the baggage mules tired out.
There was nothing else for it but to make the servants
dismount and place the baggage on their horses and my own.
Whilst "Guy Surrey" who had had very little idea of climbing
over precipices had the benefit of a little extra exercise.
17th To Venta Quemada, a
shed, 7 leagues, over a mountain and forest road. Met wit
skulls and bones still lying on the road of a detachment which
had been surprised and cut to pieces about 6 months before.
Not an inhabitant to be seen. Devilish short commons today.
19th To the hacienda or
halo (cattle estate) of Puro, 8 leagues, very hot, crossed the
River Patia, bad fare, tremendous thunder storm this night.
18th To the town of
Mercaderes, 9 leagues, crossed the River Mayo. A little better
fare although evidently is still in enemy's country.
20th To the chapel and
curacy of Bordo, 7 leagues, situated a little above the town
of Patia. Dreadfully hot but better fare than for some days
21st To the town of
Morqueta, 12 leagues, troublesome road without anything
interesting farther than passing by the gold mines of Santa
22nd To the town of
Macienda of Pimbio, 7 leagues, here we met with every luxury
than money and taste could procure. Also a deputation from the
city of Popayán waited His Excellency to facilitate him on his
To the city of Popayán, 3 leagues. Fine country. Beautiful
view of the Volcano and Cordillera. About a thousand well
dressed people came out to meet us and everything attending
the reception was as splendid as possible. There we remained
to the 29th and had four balls and several public dinners.